Category Archives: Crochet

Crochet a Flower Headband

At long last I have finally caved into mainstream fashion and I’ve gone and made a flowered headband. You know the ones — tapered with a big flower on the side? They are cute, don’t get me wrong, but I was never into knitting them and then I realized the other day — I was never into KNITTING them. But what about crochet?

I actually admire’s Calorimetry Headband. I’ve made it before, although slightly altered because I feel as though it’s too wide for my head.

But honestly, I hate purling. All you do is knit 2, purl 2 for the whole pattern and it’s enough for me to stay away.

Last weekend I set out looking on Ravelry for a simple crochet headband pattern. I ended up finding a crocheted version of the Calorimetry Headband. As a knitter by nature, I needed a crochet pattern I could understand. This one was simple and best of all, much quicker than knitting.

I decided to take this basic pattern and embellish it with a border and a flower. Pizzazz!

Tapered flower headband | A Free Crochet Pattern from Alaska Knit Nat
© Laura Stennett Photography


But I didn’t stop there. In case you don’t know me very well, when I get on a new kick I don’t stop. So I made five more. Then I decided to double the yarn and WOWEE it made it really pop. So I made four more.

Tapered flower headband | A Free Crochet Pattern from Alaska Knit Nat
© Laura Stennett Photography
Tapered flower headband | A Free Crochet Pattern from Alaska Knit Nat
© Laura Stennett Photography


And choosing the button in the back is half the fun!

© Laura Stennett Photography
© Laura Stennett Photography
© Laura Stennett Photography
© Laura Stennett Photography

So how are these pretty headbands made? LET ME TELL YOU!

First, I followed the instructions here but I used a J hook instead. I also think doubling up the yarn is much nicer, but that’s up to you. If you only have one ball just make another ball from it or use the end from the inside at the same time as the outside, if that makes sense.

Once you’ve completed the basic headband, with your contrast color start making single chains all around the outside of the headband. I didn’t put the hook into individual stitches, but instead I stuck the hook in the ch2 gaps at each end. When you’ve gone all the way around, slip stitch into the first SC and weave in all the ends.

View my previous blog post on how to crochet a flower. Then stitch the flower with a darning needle to wherever you’d like the flower to be. Pretty simple!

Tapered flower headband | A Free Crochet Pattern from Alaska Knit Nat
© Laura Stennett Photography
Tapered flower headband | A Free Crochet Pattern from Alaska Knit Nat
© Laura Stennett Photography


How to Crochet a Simple Flower

Ok, I did a less-than-adequate job of explaining how I crocheted a flower for the baby hat I knitted yesterday, so I decided to take some photos in the hopes that it’s a bit more clear.

I used two different colors so the steps are easier to follow. Please keep in mind that although I crochet lefty, the steps are still the same, just reversed.

Worsted weight yarn
size G or H crochet hook

SC = single chain
HDC = half double chain
DC = double chain

Click on photos to enlarge.

Step 1:
Make a magic circle and make 10 SC stitches into it. Draw the circle in tight and slip last stitch to the first SC.

Step 2: *Chain 5, skip a stitch, slip into the next stitch. Repeat * to end of round and slip in first ch of the round. You should have a sort of mini flower right about now.

Step 3: In the first loopy area, *SC, 2HDC, DC, 2HDC, SC. Repeat * in the remaining four loopy areas.

Step 4: This is where I changed colors, but you could keep it the same color if you wish. Heck, it’s your flower! You’ll be working behind the petals you just created, making slip stitches into the SC stitches you made in step 1. First, slip stitch in first stitch so it stays in the back of the flower. Next, slip into the next stitch. *Chain 8, skip a stitch, slip into next stitch. Repeat * till end of round. Slip next stitch to the first SC. You should now have five more loops behind the first set of petals.

Step 5: In the first loopy area, *2SC, 2HDC, 3DC, 2HDC, 2SC. Repeat * for the next four loopy areas, thus making five more petals that are offset from the first layer of petals. Slip next stitch to the first SC.

Step 6: Cut yarn leaving a 10-inch tail and draw through the remaining loop. Weave in all ends with a darning needle.

I hope this makes more sense for you!

Jazz Baby Hat

My friend Blaze is about two weeks ahead of me in her pregnancy. She had a boy last year she named Lyric and she’s getting ready to have a girl whom she is calling Jazz. Can you guess she’s a singer? 

With a name like Jazz I thought I should knit her a baby hat with some real flair. None of this pale pink stuff — I’ve got to go purple and red!

And I’ve finally learned to crochet a flower. This was the original reason I taught myself to crochet and that was almost two years ago. I now have the skills to make one without referring to a pattern. I will try to write out how I made it.

Worsted weight yarn (I used Vanna White yarn)
Size 8 double point needles (or a really long circular if you know the Magic Loop method)
Size H crochet hook (it could be smaller, but I only have two sizes)
Darning needle

Directions for hat:
Cast on 64 stitches. K1, p1 ribbing for 5 rounds
Knit in stockinette stitch for 25 more rounds, or till piece is about 4 inches tall.
Decrease as follows: *K2tog, k6*, repeat till end of round.
K 1 round
*K2tog, k5*, repeat till end of round.
K 1 round
*K2tog, k4*, repeat till end of round.
K 1 round 
*K2tog, k3*, repeat till end of round.
K 1 round
*K2tog, k2*, repeat till end of round.
K 1 round
*K2tog, k1*, repeat till end of round.
*K2tog*, repeat till end of round.

Cut yarn leaving a 12-inch tail. Weave ends through remaining eight loops using a darning needle. Weave in end yarn.
Crochet flower: 
I apologize for my poor pattern writing skills. I hope you are able to figure it out! Maybe tomorrow when I have daylight again I’ll take step-by-step photos.
SC = single crochet
HDC = half double crochet
DC = double crochet
Round 1: Make a magic ring and SC 10 stitches into ring. Join with slip stitch to first SC. 
Round 2: Chain 5, skip a stitch, slip into next stitch. Repeat four more times and join to first SC again. You should have five loopy things.
Round 3: SC once into first loopy area, then 2HDC, 1DC, 2HDC and 1 SC into same loopy area. Repeat with four remaining loops. Join to original SC.
Round 4: Skip one stitch from the first round and slip stitch into the stitches between the ones you single chained in round 2. Chain 8, skip stitch, slip into next stitch, chain 8, skip stitch, continue around till you have five new loopy things. Join with first slip stitch you made in this round.
Round 5: 2SC into first loopy, 2HDC, 3DC, 2HDC, 2SC into same loopy thing. Repeat with the remaining four loopy things. Cut yarn leaving a ten-inch tail and draw through the last loop. Weave in ends to back of flower. 
Using a darning needle sew the flower in place.


Heart Garland

My little sister’s best friend had to move away from home for medical reasons so I thought I might send her some cheer for her new temporary home.

I found a great pattern for crocheted hearts here. I only ended up doing the first two rows and they worked for me just fine. They went by so fast that I didn’t even realize how many I had made by the time the TV show I was watching was over.

Hopefully this garland isn’t too granny-ish for her, but I almost wanted to leave them up at my house. I can always make more!

Granny Blanket for Baby

Finally, after more than a year of teaching myself to crochet, I have made something substantial. All it took was being pregnant!

Baby Blanket pictured with Beary, my older sister’s favorite bear

I crocheted a blanket using the classic granny square technique. I used Lion Brand Vanna White yarn. I love the colors and it’s super cheap at JoAnn Fabrics, although I had to go to Michael’s for the blue color. They have better baby yarn selection with the Vanna White yarn.

I think the blanket cost about $35 and it took me just a week to make. My granny squares were about 6 inches so I didn’t need to make too many to make a substantially sized baby blanket. Just 16 squares, four rows of a border and a simple trim and it was done before I knew it. Joy!

I had never stitched together granny squares, although I’ve made quite a few in a failed attempt to make a blanket last year.

I just love Attic24‘s colorful, detailed instructions on all things crochet. Her blog was my inspiration to learn crochet.

Click here for a great tutorial on stitching together squares.

Click here for simple border and trim instructions (she uses UK terminology but translates it for us Americans).

I think the trim will be good for when baby is able to grab things because it feels nice between your fingers.

Overall, this blanket was a success, but I think I stitched the squares together too tightly because they poof out in the middle and doesn’t lie quite flat.

Crocheted Ugly Bunny

I love Ugly Dolls. They crack me up. Also, they are cuddly.

In my quest for easy crochet patterns I came across this brilliant pin cushion pattern on

This nutty bunny resembles Ugly Dolls and it looked relatively simple to create, so I got going. It only took a few hours to make and since I used a larger hook — J size — it turned out sort of stuffed animal sized. I opted for button eyes cause I thought he looked crazier that way.

Crocheted Baby Booties

In the past I’ve not admired crocheted objects. They looked icky to me. But during the past couple of years crochet has grown on me. It’s easier and more gratifying than knitting when you’re making blankets. And recently I’ve discovered baby booties go by more quickly on a hook than with needles.

I have Lion Brand Yarn to thank for this bootie pattern. Reading crochet patterns isn’t easy when you’re a beginner, but I took it one step at a time and after two pairs of funny looking booties I finally made a pair that resembled something. 
I would not call it a baby bootie in the size I was successful at, but more of a small child’s slipper.
Either way, I thought they were cute and a little kitchy. They don’t have the elegance of a knitted bootie, but functionality outweighs elegance when it comes to clothing a baby.
This is really a great way to make a bootie. You create the sole first, then crochet around to make the vertical volume, then work across to make the front and you end with the cuff.
I’m unable to link the pattern — it just takes you to the main Lion Brand page, so I’ll paste the pattern below. Initially it required a lot of counting and I couldn’t figure out how to get the number of cuff stitches that pattern suggests you should have, but after a couple of tries I worked it out.
Also, I still haven’t really figured out hook size so I used a J hook and it turned out just fine.

BOOTIE (make 2)

Ch 5 (7, 9, 9).
Foundation Row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across – 4 (6, 8, 8) sc.
Next 5 (6, 7, 9) Rows: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Next Row: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc – 6 (8, 10, 10) sc.
Next 4 (7, 10, 12) Rows: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Place marker in last st worked. Move marker up as work progresses.
Rnd 1:
 Do not turn, work 10 (14, 18, 22) sc evenly spaced down side of sole; work 4 (6, 8, 8) sc along opposite side of foundation ch (this is the heel); work 10 (14, 18, 22) sc evenly spaced along other side of sole; work 6 (8, 10, 10) sc across to marker – 30 (42, 54, 62) sc.
Next 2 (3, 4, 5) Rnds: Working in front loops only, sc in each sc around.
Top of Foot
 When working top of foot, do not ch 1 at the beginning of rows.
Row 1: Sc in next 1 (1, 2, 2) sc, sl st in next sc, turn, sk sl st, working in front loops only, sc in next 6 (8, 10, 10) sc; working in both loops, sl st in next 2 sc; leave remaining sts unworked.
Next 4 (8, 12, 14) Rows: Turn, sk first 2 sl sts, working in front loops only, sc in next 6 (8, 10, 10) sc across top of foot; working in both loops, sl st in next 2 sc along side of Bootie.
Next Row: Turn, sk first 2 sl sts, working in front loops only, sc in next 6 (8, 10, 10) sc across top of foot; working in both loops, sl st in next sc along side of Bootie.
Rnd 1:
 Turn, sk first sl st, working through both loops, sc in each sc around entire Bootie opening; do not join – 18 (22, 26, 30) sc.
Note: If you would like cuff to be a little tighter, when working Rnd 2, work 3 decreases evenly spaced around as follows: draw up a loop in each of next 2 sts, yarnover and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Rnd 2: Sc in each sc around.
Rep last rnd until cuff measures 1 1/2 (2, 3, 4) in. (4 (5, 7.5, 10) cm). Fasten off.
Weave in ends.